Norwegian TV at 5:00

Paul watches TV in Norwegian every night to practice his Norwegian.  We get one channel, it’s a small country, and we watch whatever is on at 5:00 in the evening weeknights.  Some of what we have seen:

September 16th: Tonight it’s a special on the color green.

October 14th: Tonight it was the Sami news.  They broadcast it in Sami with Norwegian subtitles.  The area covered is what they designate so it is part of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and some of Russia.  Tonight the kafuffle is about wildcats getting into the reindeer herds, mosquito research, a new wind farm proposal, and what the Sami senate (Sametinget) is discussing.  (Paul is unsure about his Norwegian on this but thinks the Sametinget is upset because the Swedish government is kicking them out of their parliamentary building for failure to pay rent.)

October 15th: First a segment on a man who collects cow bells.  They rang one, then another, then another…followed by shots of a milking machine being applied to cow teats while someone sang opera to the cows.  After the cow singing segment, they showed a woman who crochets sweaters for bicycles, followed by a bored, disgruntled bunch of actors stumping through a forest in troll costumes.  We finally turned off the TV to eat some brownies we baked, but we apparently haven’t figured out how our oven works yet.  Burned on the outside, raw inside.  We party hard on a Friday night here in Bergen.

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Ikea

On Tuesday, we went to the Ikea near Bergen in a town called Åsane.  Not quite as exciting as going to an Ikea in Sweden, but still as close to the original store as we are ever likely to get.  I was interested to see if the Ikea here was the same as the one in Austin.  The Åsane Ikea had the same products, store layout, cafeteria food selections, and checkout system as our Austin store.  Something was very different though and I kept trying to put my finger on it.  Finally, as we were sitting in the cafeteria eating our Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce, it dawned on me.  From where I was sitting I was looking at two mothers fussing over their babies as they put them into their strollers.  Both mothers and babies were platinum blonds.  I looked around–roughly 70% of the cafeteria population was blond and 98% of the people were white.  I remembered looking around the cafeteria the last time I was in the Austin Ikea and being particularly struck with how practically every person seemed to be a different race than their neighbor.  Multiracial couples, families of Indian, Southeast Asian, Chinese, Mexican, African-American, and white background were all noisily jumbled together as everyone tried to keep their kids in line or got up to get more coffee.  Both cafeterias were very pleasant to sit and eat Swedish meatballs in.  Both cafeterias made for fascinating people-watching.  But the Norwegian Ikea did make me miss the US.

What I miss about home:
1. having a bathtub
2. North America’s greatly higher level of racial, ethnic, and cultural diversity
3. wildlife–there aren’t even that many squirrels here from what I can tell
4. cheap food

What I love about my time here:
1. you hear A LOT of laughter and giggling
2. most of the kids I see are happy and content and the parenting seems to be on-target
3. noticeably nice dogs
4. it is so astonishingly gorgeous practically all the time
5. our apartment

So what did we buy at Ikea? A coffee cup and some chocolate bars.

Kaitlin among the flags.

In the apartment couch-cubby with the new Ikea coffee cup and a Knut Hamsun book.

The 100 cats Ikea ad.

A look behind releasing 100 cats in an Ikea.

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Norwegian Tunnels

World’s longest tunnel: Lærdalstunnelen (However the Swiss are right on their heels and will soon complete the new world’s longest tunnel.)

Corkscrew tunnels: We didn’t go in this one but it’s similar to the one going to Jotunheimen.

There is also one that goes under a glacier and some under the sea.  We took the one that went under a glacier–it was dark.

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Norway in a Nutshell

Back in Texas, when we were preparing to come to Norway a lot of people told me to do the Norway in a Nutshell (NIAN) tour.  It seems to be the one thing people do if they pass through the country quickly–and with good reason as it really does give a 100% proof shot of “Norway scenery” in one day while not having to drive the roads or hike miles back into wilderness.  This overview-in-one-day pre-planned trip was great for us because as long as we planned on going after Kaitlin came back from France it let Paul and I enjoy our week long road trip around Western Norway knowing that Kaitlin would still get to see some of what we were seeing.  It also let us skip the whole NIAN route on our car trip since we knew we would see it later.  So this Wednesday, we did the Norway in a Nutshell tour in celebration of Kaitlin’s return.

The skies were sunny all day but we were under-dressed.  The Bergen forecast predicted a high of 60 but when the train took us to Gudvangen there was frost and a temperature gauge saying 32 degrees!  Gudvangen was where we got onto a ferry for a two hour boat ride on the Nærøyfjord, which is a very narrow piece of the Sognefjord.  A chilly but amazing boatride.  Our fellow passengers were almost all from China.  They were excited to be doing the tour and there was much giggling as they pointed stuff out and took pictures.  There was also a woman who lived in Norway who was showing her English-speaking relatives the Norway in a Nutshell tour.  The relatives asked a lot of questions and her answers were more elucidating than anything I’d yet learned about Norway, tempting me to eavesdrop vigorously.  The ferry ride ended in Flåm, where we waited for two hours to take the take the Flåmsbana train up to Myrdal.  This is one of the world’s steepest railways and it was wild.  Myrdal is a tiny town–mainly just the train station really.  The ride from Myrdal to Bergen is typically pretty in a typically Norwegian way.   Everyone was right, if you go to Norway go to see NIAN.

Kaitlin took this picture of the insane road through the bus window.

View from the ferry on the Nærøyfjord.

Taken from the Flåmsbana train window.

Nothing but fall color, a train station, and lots of tourists in Myrdal.

Some Youtube videos people have shot of the tour: video 1 (general) video 2 (the insane road with the camera on the front of a motorcycle) video 3 (ferry ride) video 4 (Flåmsbana railroad between Flåm and Myrdal)

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Tidbits from France

Paul picked Kaitlin up at the airport late Saturday night from her month-long student exchange in France, and yesterday morning she was here in the Bergen apartment where she belongs and we could hug her!  She is sound and whole and in good cheer and all day the apartment felt like Christmas morning.  In the evening, we pulled out our trip journals and shared around.  This was good because one thing I have learned about Kaitlin is that she can be a tad…brief and non-committal in her emails.

This is what we learned:
First that this exchange was as good as we could hope for.  The family and the community they were part of weren’t always what she was used to, but they were kind and conscientious and fed her well.  Too well was the main complaint, “They don’t even HAVE a real term for ‘I’m full’ in France!”  They also really tried to include Kaitlin in their world and give a wide range of experiences and they talked almost exclusively in French giving her a lot of language practice.  I am very grateful to them and hope to return the favor someday.

Louise, Kaitlin, Anne and Paul in Paris.

The Bragards and their best-friend-family the Pothiers. Kaitlin spent quite a bit of time with them too.

The things I liked hearing about were not so much the travel itinerary–a week in Paris seeing the traditional sites, then a week in Amplepuis where the host family lived, then a week in Lyon attending the girl’s Catholic Law school, and finally a week in Amplepuis again where she attended a small private Catholic high school–but the little stuff done around the corners.  A highlight was going to the Mom’s grade school where she teaches English to ten-year-olds and answering their questions about America.  They asked about food in Austin and had never heard of tacos!  So part of what Kaitlin did in France was explain the concept of a taco.  A relative was having her 80th birthday and there was a family reunion to celebrate.  The reunion’s meal was printed out as a menu and Kaitlin got a copy for her scrapbook.  It was quite the feast with her pointing out at what point down the list of courses one couldn’t possibly eat any more.  She did try everything, though.  Apparently trying everything there is to eat is a stereotype of Americans in France.  If she didn’t like something but still tried it they thought it was cutely American.  There was a community dance one night in the home-ville of Amplepuis where she went with Louise, who introduced her to almost everyone with, “This is my second cousin…this is my aunt’s neighbor…this is a friend of my cousin…”  She knew everyone.  As a consequence of everyone knowing everyone, Kaitlin, as the new face on the block, was rather popular.  At the college, she hung out by herself in the mornings at Louise’s apartment and attended classes with her in the afternoons. This experience has dampened Kaitlin’s enthusiasm for trying to get into the Université de Montréal.  “The kids take their notes on laptops in college and the teachers all talk so fast about subjects I’d be new to learning about!”  One morning after a bunch of Louise’s friends hung out in the apartment until late ending up in a sleep-over, the whole crew of girls got up early and walked to the nearest boulangerie for baguettes in their pajamas and slippers.

Louise, Kaitlin, and best friend Chloe.

The part that interested Kaitlin the most was attending the high school.  I was interested to learn that she felt that the school work at the senior level was below what they do in her Austin high school freshman and sophomore year.  It was a very small rural private school and she didn’t have broad enough experience to judge if the lack of academic vigor was due to the French school system’s expectations in general or the size and nature of that one school.  Interesting to hear however after a lifetime of hearing about how inferior American public schools are to their European counterparts.  What she felt was most lacking was a sense of boiling creativity–the classroom was much better behaved than in Austin, but no one doodled on the sides of their notes, no one made jokes, or asked provocative questions.  A last note: Louise’s older brother still lived in the home though he had a job.  He is the moderator of one of France’s largest Star Wars web sites.  Kaitlin couldn’t sufficiently keep up with Star Wars trivia to be any good at bantering about it but did know enough of Star Trek and Tolkien to be of interest and they hit it off well.

Brother Paul is in the red shirt.

Tonight we will take a look at the 700+ pictures her host family took and put on a CD for her.

Paparazzi shot. The Dad took a lot of pictures.

Okay, that's enough pictures now...

Kaitlin: "Ohhhh Paris!" Anne: "Honey..." Louise: "Dad! Stop taking pictures!!"

Paris is MINE.

My favorite. They are in Disneyland Paris.

Another favorite. Disneyland Paris again.

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The Growth of the Soil and Nazi Sympathizers

In the mornings, I have a delicious hour to read fiction.  My latest book is The Growth of the Soil by Knut Hamsun (translator not listed).  This is a Norwegian classic about rural farm life in the early 1900s.  It has a unique writing style–the light shown on the character’s often dubious actions and opinions is not a harsh mid-day sunlight, but a soft diffuse light that comes through a mist at sunrise.  Gentle-writing. Unfortunately all the pretty soft-focus gentleness sours when one learns that the author was a Nazi sympathizer (as in gave his Nobel Literary prize to Goebbels out of appreciation…).  It seems like Norway had its share of those.  The mold of forgotten Nazi action surfaces now and then.  Like when we climbed to the top of Mount Blåmanen and wondered what those five round circular mounds could be?  German WWII anti-aircraft gun sites?  (Google says yes.)  If they were Nazi anti-aircraft sites than was the road that we were walking on built by them too?  With free or forced labor?

More thoughts on Knut Hamsun in the UK books blog and a relevant New Yorker article.

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On Top of the Mountain

I walk through the city and climb Mount Floyen on the other side of Bergen almost every day to get some exercise.  After I get through the urban part of the walk and start up the steepest part of the mountain it becomes a wonderful hike through a pine forest coated with moss.  I always stop right before the crest though because, it being a mountain, I am tired and want to go home by the time I reach the very top.  There is a way to cheat the mountain though–Bergen has a thing called a funicular that takes people over the steepest part easily leaving them happy to explore the mountain’s very top.  I had been checking the weather reports daily for over a week trying to find at least one day with little enough chance of rain to take the Floibanen funicular and spend the day seeing what is up there.  Finally it looked like Tuesday might work.  Paul worked in the office over the rainy weekend to be able to feel like he could reasonably take Tuesday off and join me.  The funicular is great.  You sit on a bench in a glassed-in cable-car-like vehicle facing away from the mountain toward the bay and watch the city of Bergen grow smaller as the car climbs.  The very top of the next mountain (Blåmanen) is great too–its all Scottish highland-type tundra! The view goes out so far that I could finally see past those pesky islands out in Bergen’s sound to the real ocean.  A level line of dark blue…I am definitely going up there again.

View from the top of Mount Floyen. Note the size of the cruise ship.

View to the left as one walks to Mount Blåmanen.

My favorite tree in Norway. I call it Ben. One the walk to Mount Blåmanen.

Troll at the top of Mount Floyen where there is a small playground.

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Sometimes Strange Stuff Happens

A few weeks ago I headed off for a walk.  The big red church is built on top of a hill with 68 steps going down into the shopping district.  It flattens out for a bit where the stores are, then another hill starts swooping up into a wooded forest.  If you stand by the church you get quite a long view.  Down off the far hillside there started to be a sound of trumpets.  These got louder as the trumpeters approached.  Behind them came a long line of preschool aged children and the occasional adult escort.  The kids were walking four abreast and wearing bright yellow raincoats.  The line of children got longer and longer spreading out behind the approaching trumpet players who turned off down a street to the left as they got close to the base of the church steps.  It was such a long line that kids in yellow raincoats stretched out until you couldn’t see them anymore.  I didn’t think Bergen could possibly have that many preschool aged kids let alone any left over not in the line.  Had we really just sent all the young children to follow pipers out of the city?

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Food Notes

After Kulturnatt, there was a local foods festival on Saturday which had local farmers (this is a very rural/agrarian country) bringing in their processed food wares.  Canned fruit, dried fish, cheeses, salamis, breads and baked goods, jams.  Every booth had samples and we got quite full.  This was really fun but for the most part the native food is thin and tan.  And fishy.  Thin and tan and fishy and absurdly expensive.  I subsist on digestive biscuits.

Typical Norwegian foods:
Lefsa: what we get here is a special variety called Hardanger Lefse.  I don’t like it much but its a local favorite.  Some call them Norwegian tortillas.
Noregian waffles (spelled in Norwegian, “vaffler”): Paul is now making these on Sunday mornings instead of pancakes.
Stockfish: I have yet to be convinced that this is edible.  We made a soup with it according to instruction but probably (hopefully) did something wrong.
Lapskaus stew: Love this stuff.  It’s supposed to be made with reindeer meat but most people substitute other meat instead.
Snofrisk: Finally something cheaper here than in the US!  If you haven’t already had some, go get some, its the best ever.
Ringers beer: Very popular here.  Also Hansa.  (This link has a lot of info including the 4.75% factoid–see earlier where I contend that all is bland.)
Nutella: Not a Norwegian food exactly but they have whole grocery store aisles devoted to it and its copy-cat equivalents.  I want a Nutella tee-shirt.
Reindeer: Rather hard to get.  Paul wanted some for his birthday and we thought we would blow-the-town and actually got out to a restaurant for a reindeer steak but had a hard time finding any.  Some grocery stores sell it and we bought one meal’s worth for a little over $30 US.  Our recipe said to boil it in beer.  It was delicious.

Mostly though, we shop at the import stores due to food costs.  So we are eating more Thai, Indian, and Chinese type dishes than one would think given where we are living.  Ramen is the same everywhere.

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Rain in Bergen

It has been about two and a half weeks in Bergen at this point and we have just started getting rain!  There was a 10 day dry spell (absolutely beautiful weather) which apparently hasn’t happened here in over 13 years!  This was sort of funny to me because the guide book says about Bergen:

As it has been raining ever since she arrived in the city, a tourist stops a young boy and asks him if it always rains here.  “I don’t know,” he replies, “I’m only 13.” (The Rough Guide to Scandinavia pg 316).

This makes me think that perhaps that boy had now turned 14.  Now that “weather normalcy” has returned it does pretty much rain all the time here but in a gentle way that can pretty much be ignored when running errands and is very cozy the rest of the time.  It gets about 89 inches a year average.

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